As much as we’d all hate to admit it, the winterpocalypse is coming.
I know, I know.
I’m terrible for even bringing it up.
However, we all need to begin prepping for the winter season during fall, and it’s ideal to have a plan in motion before the time comes.
That chore list of yours should definitely include overwintering the herb bed, which is what we’re covering today!
Step #1: Remove or Dig Up Annual and Tender Perennial Herbs
If you know your herb garden contains herbs that couldn’t possibly handle 32°F or below, tear them out with the final harvest. This gives your remaining plants more space, air, nutrients, and light to prepare for the coming winter. Basil and Cilantro are not fond of cold weather, and are two examples of herbs that you’ll need to pull out.
For the tender perennials, such as Rosemary, you might want to dig them up, pot them up, and keep them indoors until the worst of the winter weather is over. You could even clone your mother Rosemary plant instead, to reduce the amount of work you need to do. These plants could be placed outside on the sunnier, warmer days, in order to keep them a little happier during the cold months. Here, we have many winter days that are in the 50’s through 70’s, so this is an easy solution to keeping our perennial herbs happy. Of course, you’ll still need to learn to grow them indoors with artificial lighting in order for them to survive.
Lavender is another one that can be a sensitive perennial in some places, so be sure to check its hardiness in your USDA zone.
Step #2: Fertilize Plants During Summer
In order for your perennials to prepare for winter, you need to make sure they are well fed. When fertilized, the perennial plants will grow a bit bigger and stronger, which is important as they head into the colder months. Never fertilize 6 weeks or less before the first frost date; you want the plant to grow, then contribute to its energy stores. Fertilizing too late can cause the plants to focus on growing rather than preparing for winter, which could compromise and weaken the plants.
Head for the coop, the goat barn, or the compost pile for some of the best fertilizer that you could ask for! If you don’t have a compost bin, it’s one of our 5 Most Important Free/Cheap Projects for Homesteaders, and you truly should start one today! It’s so easy!
Step #3: Pruning and Thinning Plants
Before the first frost arrives, thin your plants generously. Remove any plants that look stunted, diseased, crowded, or otherwise unhealthy. These plants may not make it to spring, and any diseased specimens could spread illness to healthier plants. It’s easier to remove them now, then replace them in the spring (or during the late fall, if possible). If you have an abundance of healthy plants that need to be pulled, you need to learn how to turn those extra herb plants into a homestead income– after all, you’re going to need a bit of extra cash for all of that mid-winter, stir-crazy seed impulse buying you’ll likely indulge in (you can’t hide from it! Trust me!)
For the plants that make the cut, you’ll want to prune them after the first frost. Once the plant begins to die back, you can prune it to a much shorter height. For most herbs, this will be between 6″ and 12″ in height. The tallest parts of the plant will be the most prone to wind and cold damage, and they may require additional pruning in spring. Pruning allows the plants to grow back healthy, bushy, and vigorous the following spring, while removing bulk which allows mulch to keep them warmer.
Step #4: Planting Overwintering Seeds, Transplants, and Bulbs
If you have any seeds, transplants, or bulbs to plant, pay close attention to when they need to be planted. Once the bed is cleaned, thinned, and pruned, you have an excellent opportunity to fill it in with new plants.
Onion seeds can be sown in late summer, allowing the plants to grow a small bulb before winter hits. These small bulbs will come back to life in the spring, producing onions in the middle of summer. Many flowers are like this, as well!
If you have transplants that need to be in the ground, try to plant them 6 weeks before the first frost date. This gives them an opportunity to root before the cold sets in. Strawberry plants are excellent candidates for late summer/fall transplanting.
For bulbs, fall is a great time to plant. Garlic is commonly planted at the tail end of summer, as it’s believed to have a better flavor at harvest if it is allowed to grow a bit before winter arrives.
Step #5: Applying Mulch
Mulch is important for protecting overwintering plants. While some plants (such as catnip and sage) can take winter temperatures quite well, others need a thick layer of mulch to survive the cold.
You’re going to want to apply 4″ to 8″ worth of mulch, with tender plants being as deeply mulched as possible. Try to mulch as much of the exposed above-ground plants as possible for the best results. Mulch can be pulled back once the extreme cold is over, which means it won’t hinder spring growth.
Some of the most common types of mulch include:
- Wood chips
- Spent animal bedding (goats, horses, rabbits)
- Spent hay, wet hay, rotting hay
- Straw
- Cardboard
- Paper Waste
- Compost
- Pine Needles
Step #6: Extra Protection During Cold Snaps
If you’re expecting an intense cold snap this winter that could wipe out your overwintering herb garden, you need to prepare immediately.
There are several ways to keep your herb garden alive through the winter, largely through the use of row covers and deep mulch. Keep additional mulch on hand in case you need it; rotting hay is also excellent, as it produces heat as it decomposes. If you place deep mulch and row covers over your herb garden, you’ll protect it from temporary extreme overnight lows and wind damage.
